Dartmoor Hiking: North to South Route

Are you looking for a challenging hike that will test both your navigation skills and your hill walking fitness? If so, you need to try some of the Dartmoor hiking routes that criss-cross this beautiful and very wild place. A National Park, Dartmoor is nestled in the south-west of England and is an ideal destination for hikers. Covering about 300 mi.², the distance from north to south is about 26 miles.

The hills peppering the moorland are known as tors. Whilst not the highest heights in the United Kingdom they are numerous and a large number of pretty steep. As with any of Britain’s national parks, Dartmoor can be a dangerous place if you’re unprepared. If you’re a novice hiker consider reading my hillwalking essentials guides before you attempt this route.

Now that we’ve covered the preamble, let’s get this hike on the road.

As a regular visitor, you already know that I use Dartmoor as a training ground. The terrain is hard going, and the weather can be summed up in one simple phrase: ‘four seasons in one’. Temperatures can drop from balmy to biting cold in a matter of minutes.

Dartmoor hiking routes can test both your skills and endurance.

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Hot Weather Hiking Tips

hot weather hiking in the Sahara desert
The Sahara Desert – the ultimate hot weather destination for hikers.

You unzip the door of your tent and the heat rolls in – it’s a scorching day outside. Your lips crack at the more thought of hiking into what will become a midday inferno. Even the parched plants look back at you with pity. But suffering for no good reason is dull and painful, so here’s a big list of hot weather hiking tips taken from my many miles of exploration.

Let me caveat this post: I find hiking in cold climates far easier than warmer places.

Time to get down to it…

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How To Cross A River: The Hiker’s Guide

An open lead in the Arctic. Not a river, but not the kind of water you want to jump into!
A narrow water obstacle (open lead) at the North Pole. Not the kind of water crossing you want to attempt.

Picture the scene: your hike has taken you deep into the serene and beautiful hills. Ahead lie swathes of green grass, shimmering peaks and slashes of crystal blue water. But in no time at all the stunning view turns dim as the rains come and turns streams into wild torrents. Now you need to know how to cross a river.

On your travels there are times when your route is going to be blocked by a river, or significant body of water. Some organisations, think military, advocate only one way to cross these kinds of features: jump in with all your gear and swim across! Not one of the rules for hiking we recommend.

Crossing swollen rivers or large bodies of water can be hazardous. Following a storm or flood there is a real risk to life. Today we’re going to explore a number of methods you can use to move or reduce the risk that comes with crossing a water feature.

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Rules for Hiking: Including Recycling Your Pee!

This post was last updated on September 28th, 2019 at 03:19 pm

hiking rules keep the countryside green
Follow the rules, keep the green places green.

We are hikers, we were born to explore, we travel places many others aren’t interested or inclined to go to. We love the outdoors and a sense of adventure that brings being in green and wild places. And with that sense of wonder comes a need to protect and preserve the places we trek and explore. But there are rules for hiking (which I invented just before putting together this responsible hikers guide).

Sadly the world is changing and not for the better. The ever increasing population has placed huge demands on our green and pleasant places. Even though the percentage of people who enjoy outdoor activities is still relatively small the population increase has had an overall and quite detrimental effect on the landscape of our planet.

I hate preaching! Unless of course I’m in one of those more moments when I really enjoyed preaching. But today rather than have a little rant I’m gonna keep it simple: today we are going to explore some ideas on how we can be responsible hikers.

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Walks Near Thame in Oxfordshire | 4 Long Walks

Thame Town Hall

I know quite a few of the many walks near Thame as I live here. The small market town nestled in the Oxfordshire countryside boasts some of the finest footpaths and sites in the English countryside whilst Oxfordshire might not be known for having the biggest hills, it certainly has some truly stunning locations for you to walking. As well as the countryside there is a river Thames, also known as Isis. The Thames runs alongside Thame. On the outskirts of the town there is a bridge over the river which is a great location to play Poohsticks with the kids.

Although not as breathtaking as the Wittenham Clumps, Thame has some amazing country walks to explore. Couple a long day striding out through the fields and byways around the town and you’ll be more than ready to take in some of the pubs and cafes that dot the area.

Some of you may already know I’m a keen runner. I spent many hours exploring the routes around that Thame. Some of these footpaths are great for both training and more sedate countryside walks.

Below are three of the best walks near Thame that I can recommend.

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Wittenham Clumps Walk: Hard and Easy Routes

wittenham clumps near didcot

This post was last updated on June 22nd, 2019 at 09:59 pm

This Wittenham clumps walk covers 4 miles of beautiful Oxfordshire countryside. AKA ‘Mother Dunch’s Buttocks’, the Clumps are a pair of chalk hills located in an otherwise flat area of the Thames Valley.  Named Castle Hill and Round Hill, the heights offer sightseers a stunning panorama of the surrounding Oxfordshire countryside. Both hills are crowned by wreaths of woodland and one of the clumps is the site of an ancient hill fort dating back to the Bronze Age.

Given their height, the clumps provide breath taking views of the surrounding countryside. I regularly train on these peaks and every time I reach the top I always pause to take in the sights – something not to be missed.

Standing at over 300 feet tall and topped with a crown of trees, the two hills of Wittenham Clumps are local landmarks in this otherwise flat part of the Thames Valley. Stunning views of the surrounding countryside are a hallmark of the Clumps. As is the fact that is hotspot for sledging mayhem in the winter months!

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News discussion: enforcement of safe hiking

This post was last updated on September 1st, 2020 at 10:46 am

I’ve talked several times before about the tendency of people to go up mountains appallingly ill-equipped. On Snowdon we passed dozens of people in inappropriate shoes, tight denim trousers, cotton t-shirts, little-to-no insulation, and quite clearly not carrying the sort of daysacks necessary to contain water, food, wet-kit, a torch and other essentials.

It wasn’t just idle moaning either, or me and my usual tendency to be over-prepared and unduly concerned about safety. A few days later someone sent me an article which mentioned the number of rescues made by the local mountain rescue team on Snowdon the very day I was there. The mountain rescue team leader made a pointed remark that had some people carried the minimum of basic equipment, he and his team might not have had to leave their families on New Year’s Eve and venture up the mountain.

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Six things I learnt wild camping in the Brecon Beacons

This post was last updated on July 23rd, 2020 at 10:56 am

Last summer I decided to hike over Pen y Fan with my brother and a friend, starting from the nearby train station in Merthyr Tydfil and ending in Brecon, where there is a bus back to Merthyr Tydfil. Although this is actually a perfectly achievable one-day hike, we wanted to extend it with some other walks and camp for a couple of nights. Wild camping in the Brecon Beacons is possible as long as you behave responsibly and leave no trace, although as we were very much not planning ahead, I was a little anxious about how easy it would be to find a suitable campsite. Well, here’s what I learned.

Also, yes, the Game of Thrones pun is very much intended and I’m quite proud of it.

1. Wild Camping is not that hard

As I mentioned, I was initially nervous about wild camping but there are plenty of woodblocks away from paths where you will be unseen and undisturbed. You simply have to be sensible, avoid leaving any trace of your presence, and be prepared to move on in the very very unlikely event that anyone asks you to. But it’s not like the place is filled with patrols of park wardens.

Wild camping gives you the opportunity to hike and sleep in amazing locations. Be bold, but be respectful of the land and other people’s property, and you’ll be fine.

2. What is wet may never dry

For the first part of our walk it was raining lightly on and off, and the long grass was soaked. I had only brought one pair of trousers, which is more than adequate for a two-day hike given weight constraints (see below) but as it wasn’t very cold and I don’t overly mind getting wet I took a fairly cavalier approach to striding through the wet grass and getting my trousers wet. It didn’t seem like a big deal at the time, but by the time we came to set up camp it was pouring down and there was no way anything was getting dry. I had other dry clothes in canoe bags in my daysack of course, but not a second pair of trousers, so they had to be put back on again wet the following day, which was not a great start to the morning. As my trousers were the ones that zip off into shorts, I’d have been much better off doing that as soon as we got to the long grass, as it’s much easier to quickly get wet skin dry in a cramped tent than wet fabric.

Taking the extra time to stop yourself getting wet in the first place is almost always going to be more effective than trying to get dry once you’re already wet.

3. Dry socks mean morale

Despite the above, I had a pair of socks for every day, secure in a canoe bag. They might not be strictly necessary, but putting damp feet into dry socks into wet boots is a lot easier to cope with than putting damp feet into wet socks into wet boots. Believe me. It’s not just a question of comfort either; if you think you can’t get trench foot on a Welsh hillside, try a few days of wearing wet socks and wet boots all the time, and see what happens.

For short trips, I’d say a pair of socks per day is worth the weight. For longer trips, you can dry out a pair (Royal Marines are taught to tuck them into their armpits and let their body heat dry them as they yomp), but doing so might take all day, so a third pair may still be a good idea. Of course, extra socks is extra weight – but not a lot of extra weight, and for many of us the additional comfort will be well worth it.

4. If you want it, you’re carrying it up the mountain

Being comfortable camping isn’t hard. Large tents, air beds, camp stoves, kettles, lamps, dry clothes, etc all make it as comfortable as you want it to be. But then, you’ve got to carry it all up Pen y Fan. My pack ended up weighing around 17kg including food and water, which was hard to restock once we were in the national park. I could have been more comfortable while camping if I’d had a heavier sleeping bag and more dry clothes to change into, but then again I’d have been more comfortable walking up Pen y Fan if I’d had a lighter pack, so it’s all trade-offs.

Just remember that what seems worth chucking in as a ‘just in case’ item when you’re packing in your living room might seem less worth it when you’re carrying it up the mountain. Almost every trip I’ve been on, I’ve come to the conclusion that I could have ditched a bit of kit, gone lighter, and been no less comfortable. Much of that comes through experience.

(Note from Jake in 2020, re-reading this while re-publishing it on TrekSumo. I think the fact that I am now absolutely horrified by the fact that I ever carried a 17kg pack on a two-day hiking trip just bears out the point I am making above. There is no substitute for experience when it comes to figuring out what you do and don’t need on a hike, where you can tolerate cutting corners to save weight and where you can’t, what ‘ultra-light’ kit works and what is garbage, and so on. My PCT pack was substantially lighter than this, even with food for five days, and next time I do a major hike my pack will be lighter again. That’s the learning process.)

5. Even on simple, well-marked walks, there’s no substitute for a map and compass, and knowing how to use them

Pen y Fan is, by most standards, a simple walk. There are several well-trodden paths up it and, assuming you’re taking one of these routes, no advanced navigation is required. However, when we arrived at the top it was shrouded in fog (check out the picture at the top of this article for just how bad the visibility was) and by the time we had taken some photos, had a look around, and chatted to the only other hiker up there, I wasn’t completely sure which way we had come up, let alone which was the route down (we weren’t going down the same way we’d come up, as we were crossing Pen Y Fan on our way from one town to another, remember). In the absence of a map and compass and the basic skills to use them, this could at best have been a time-consuming problem and, at worst, actually dangerous as some of the drops from the plateau at the top of Pen Y Fan are relatively steep. As it was, I was easily enough able to orientate ourselves and identify the route off the top.

It is easy to set out on well-established day hikes like going up Pen y Fan without basic equipment and most of the time you’d probably be fine, but that one time in ten when it’s dense fog at the top, you’ll be glad you can do some simple navigation.

6. Know when to call it a day

The original plan had called for two nights camping, with a short walk on the first day, the hike over Pen y Fan the second day, and some other undefined short walk on the third day. However, by the end of the second day we had achieved our main goal, the rain showed no signs of letting up, we were weary, none of us had any dry clothes, and one member of the party had realised on the first night that his sleeping system probably wasn’t quite adequate for the cold nights and the ceaseless rain. As the organiser and de facto leader, I suggested at that point that we simply get the bus back to Merthyr Tydfil and head home that evening, instead of having an extra night in the field and morning of walking for the sake of it. The suggestion was seized upon with no argument whatsoever and we headed home, turning what could have been a demoralising slog into a thoroughly enjoyable 36 hour trip that is memorable for all the right reasons.

Having a plan is good, but you have to be ready to adapt it to changing circumstances, and the morale and condition of your party.